Art lovers around the world know the paintings of Frida Kahlo, haunting self-portraits, Aztec inspired symbols and fearless feminist images. Very few, however, get to enjoy this Mexican painter’s other creative gift - her culinary skill. Chicago sisters Marlene and Lidia Benitez are changing that. Their restaurant, La Cocina de Frida, pays homage to Kahlo’s art and prepares delicious meals using her original recipes. The simple elegance of the food and décor will impress any date, especially an art lover.
As you make your way up Clark Street in Andersonville, look for the brown awning that simply says “Frida.” Notice the many versions of Frida’s paintings on the walls, and the beautiful portrait of her with calla lilies, painted by her husband Diego Rivera. If the weather’s hot, proceed to the cool, shady patio. If not, stay inside and enjoy the art and the brightness of the pink and orange room. Most tables seat two and the quiet, modestly-sized dining room allows for long conversations. Service is friendly, but never intrusive. Order a cerveza or wine from the full bar. I enjoyed the margarita, served in a pint glass with salt.
As Frida probably knew, a shortcut to the heart of a man or a woman is through the stomach. Start your meal with an appetizer like the guacamole de Frida with queso fresco, or the ceviche, a simple, addictive mix of shrimp, avocado, tomato and red onion ($8). The crimson salsa is smoky hot but won’t scald your tongue; spices are used wisely here. Offer your date some corn comfort food with the popular tamales ($2 each), baked fresh here every day.
Many dishes give you the option of steak, chicken, shrimp or beans and cheese. The Mexican cheeses nicely balance the spicy dishes. Vegetarians and others will appreciate plentiful, unique vegetables like the traditional grilled cactus salad, pickly yet crunchy, flecked with white cheese. I ordered La Bomba de Frida, an explosion of chorizo, ham, pork, pineapple, red and green bell peppers, crowned with melted manchego cheese and cilantro, with tortillas. There was plenty to share, so I sampled and traded with my dining partner, who enjoyed the special carne in chipotle, chicken with a white sauce of Chihuahua cheese smoked chipotle peppers, with a side of beans and cactus salad.
You can finish your meal on a romantic, traditional note with a thick slice of flan ($4). The creamy caramel flan sits in a light cinnamon sauce with a cherry on top. Or warm up with a big mug of hot cocoa; the original food of love from Mexico.
In a city with hundreds of good Mexican restaurants, La Cocina de Frida is a great one.
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The Vitals
5403 N Clark St
Chicago, IL 60640
773-271-1907
Neighborhood: Andersonville
Website
Hours:
Monday-Thursday: 11am to 10pm
Friday-Saturday: 11am to 11pm
Sunday: 11am to 10pm